It turns one painted model into separate single-color parts that fit back together. Paint the model in Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer or PrusaSlicer, save the project, drop the .3mf here, and you get one part per color. Print each part in its own filament on any printer, one color at a time, then glue them together. No AMS, no purge tower, no color change on every layer.
Everything runs in your browser. The file is never uploaded anywhere.
Every color patch on the model gets one of two joints, chosen from its shape:
Either way every part is a slice of the solid model, not a thin shell peeled off its surface. The parts add back up to the original, and every pin and pocket lands in real material.
| Setting | What it changes |
|---|---|
| Colours | Which color stays the main body (the rest are cut out of it), which become separate parts, and which you would rather keep as paint and print with a color change. |
| Cut + inlay / Inlays only | "Inlays only" never cuts on a plane, so nothing is sliced through. Use it when you want the main body to stay whole. |
| Inlay thickness | How far the inlay reaches below the deepest point of its color. Thicker is stronger and easier to handle, and costs a deeper pocket. |
| Fit clearance | The gap on each side of an inlay. 0.2 mm suits most printers; 0.3 mm shows as a visible line, 0.1 mm needs a well-tuned printer. |
| Smooth brush edges | Rounds off the jagged steps a brush leaves along a border, so the inlay and its pocket have clean walls. |
| Pins on flat cuts | Square keeps the part from turning, round and triangle are there if you prefer them. The pin shrinks on a narrow cut and is left out where the wall would be too thin. |
The STL download turns every part the way it prints best: a flat cut lies on its cut face, an inlay on its flat floor with the visible side up, so the side walls that decide the fit print vertical and smooth. The 3MF opens in Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer with every part already on its own filament; tick "Keep the parts in place" to get the model assembled instead.
Dry-fit first. Inlays should slide in with light pressure; sand the side, not the top, if one is tight. Glue with a drop of CA glue in the pocket, and press flat cuts together on the pin.
The file has no paint in it. Paint the model with the brush or fill tool in your slicer, then save the whole project (.3mf), not an STL export.
Its border is not flat enough to cut on. Repaint it so the color ends on a straight line all round, or accept the inlay: it fits just as well and hides its seam in the paint border.
The color wraps too far round the model, so no single direction pulls it out of its pocket. Split the paint into two patches, glue it in at an angle, or set that color to "Keep as paint".
Change the fit clearance and split again. Every printer is a little different; 0.15 to 0.25 mm covers most of them.