High-contrast portraits and pets look best.
A lithophane is a thin printed panel whose thickness varies with the brightness of your photo. Where the picture is bright the panel is thin and light passes through; where it is dark the panel is thick and blocks the light. Lit from the front it looks like a blank white tile. Put a light behind it and the photograph appears.
That is the whole trick, and it is also the whole constraint: a lithophane only works backlit. Everything below follows from that.
This matters more than any setting. A lithophane has a narrow thickness range to express the entire tonal range of an image, so it compresses contrast hard.
| Works well | Works badly |
|---|---|
| High contrast, clear subject | Flat, evenly lit, low contrast |
| Simple or plain background | Busy background competing with the subject |
| Faces and pets, cropped tight | Wide landscapes with small detail |
| Silhouettes and strong shapes | Very dark photos, which go uniformly thick |
Crop before you upload. A face filling the frame reads far better than the same face at a quarter of the frame, because every millimetre of panel is then spent on detail you care about.
| Setting | Use | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Orientation | Vertical, standing up | Layer lines run across the image instead of along it, and no supports are needed |
| Layer height | 0.1 to 0.12 mm | Layer height is your tonal resolution here, not just surface finish |
| Infill | 100% | Any gap scatters light and shows as a grey haze |
| Line width | 0.4 mm | Keeps the thin bright areas solid |
| Material | White or natural PLA | Diffuses evenly. Avoid silk and sparkle filaments, which scatter unpredictably |
| Speed | Slower than usual | Thin walls printed fast under-extrude, which shows up as banding |
Almost always infill below 100%, or too small a thickness range so the darks never get properly dark. Print solid and widen the range. If the print is right, try a brighter backlight before reprinting: a dim light flattens even a good lithophane.
Under-extrusion on the thin sections, usually from printing too fast. Slow down and check the flow rate. Because a lithophane is nearly all thin wall, it exposes extrusion problems a normal print would hide.
Either the source photo was too small or too low contrast, or the layer height is too coarse. Layer height is the tonal resolution: at 0.2 mm you have half the tonal steps you would have at 0.1 mm.
A tall thin panel has a small footprint and a lot of leverage. Use a brim, keep the door shut and draughts away, and if it keeps happening add a small printed foot or print it in a frame.
You can, but it will look worse. Flat printing runs the layer lines along the image and needs the detail to be expressed in Z, where you have far fewer steps to work with. Vertical is the right default.
A lithophane is one way to turn a picture into a physical object. These are the others here: