A printable cap that sits on a golf ball with your initials, a symbol or your own logo cut clean through it, plus grip tabs so you can hold it steady. Drop it over the ball, run a marker through the cut-out, lift it off, and every ball gets the same mark.
A stencil is a hole, so the middle of a closed letter has nothing holding it in. The counter of an O, the triangle in an A, the hole in a P: cut those straight through and the centre falls out, leaving a blob instead of a letter.
The generator adds tie bars, thin bridges that hold those islands in place. They leave a small gap in the drawn line, which is exactly how every physical stencil works and is why stencil lettering looks the way it does. This is a design feature, not a defect.
| Setting | Use | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Layer height | 0.12 to 0.16 mm | The cut edge is what shapes your line, so its finish matters |
| Walls | 3 perimeters | Keeps thin tie bars solid |
| Infill | 20% | The cap is thin; walls do the work |
| Supports | None | Print open-side down and nothing overhangs |
| Material | PLA or PETG | Either is fine; PETG survives a golf bag better |
Those are the tie bars, and they are deliberate. Without them the middle of a closed letter would drop out entirely. Every physical stencil works this way.
Too much ink, a tip that is too broad, or dragging rather than dabbing. Use a fine tip and dab straight down.
Golf balls are a standard diameter, so a poor fit usually means the print came out slightly undersized or has elephant's foot on the first layer. Check the first layer and reprint if the rim is squashed.
A stencil cut through a curved cap cannot hold very fine detail, and everything enclosed needs a tie bar. Simplify the artwork to bold shapes with clear separation.