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Cosplay eye mesh

A curved honeycomb eye mesh for masks and helmets. Print it flat, warm it, press the curve in.

3D render of two curved black honeycomb cosplay eye meshes in front of the orange and blue press halves that form them
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An 80 x 41 mm almond eye mesh for a cosplay mask or helmet: a fine black honeycomb, 58% open, domed 6 mm so it follows the face instead of sitting flat in the eye hole. From the inside you look straight through it; from the outside, in a dark colour, it reads as a solid black eye.

Made with our mesh former. The net prints flat in under 20 minutes, with no supports. Warm it with a heat gun or a hair dryer, lay it in the printed cavity and push the plug down on it, and it keeps the curve once it cools. The almond is symmetric, so the same press makes both eyes. The flat 4 mm rim around it is the flange you glue behind the eye hole.

The zip has the net, the plug, the cavity, a print sheet and the outline as an SVG. Drop the SVG on the mesh former, or trace your own mask's eye hole, to change the size, the curve or the cell size.

Shown as a 3D render of two formed eye meshes in front of the two press halves, not a photo.

What you need

  • A few grams of black PETG or PLA for the nets, and about 25 g of PLA for the press
  • A heat gun, or a hair dryer on its hottest setting
  • E6000, hot glue or two-part epoxy to fix the rim behind the eye hole

How to make it

  1. Print one net per eye, and the plug and the cavity once, all flat on the bed.
  2. Lay a net in the cavity's pocket, flat face down, so the small pins go through the holes in its rim.
  3. Warm the net with the heat gun kept moving 15 to 20 cm away until it goes limp, then push the plug straight down and hold it for half a minute. Repeat with the second net.
  4. Glue the flat rim to the inside of the mask round the eye hole, dome facing out.
  5. Paint or line the inside of the mask black around the eyes, so the mesh reads as solid from outside.
Print details
TypePrint only
Total print time1 h 47 min
Printed parts3
Size (W x D x H)80 x 41 x 8 mm
Filament~25 g
Layer height0.2 mm
Infill10%
SupportsNot needed
PrinterSliced with PrusaSlicer 2.7.2 at MK3S speeds: 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layers, 2 walls, 10% infill. Net 19 min and 2 g, in black PETG or PLA. Plug and cavity 1 h 28 min together, in any PLA. Print one net per eye. No supports.
DownloadZIP: flat net + press plug + press cavity (STL) + outline (SVG) + print sheet
Added2026-09-24

ZIP: flat net + press plug + press cavity (STL) + outline (SVG) + print sheet

Free for personal use. Selling the pieces you cast needs a commercial licence (Pro or Founder); passing on the file itself is not permitted on any plan. Full terms.

Made with the free mesh former generator. Upload your own drawing and get the same kind of part built from it, in your browser.

New to casting? Read the mesh former guide.

cosplay eye meshmask eye meshhelmet eye meshcosplay meshsee through meshthermoformed 3d print

Questions about this design

Can people see my eyes through the cosplay eye mesh?

Not in normal light. A one-way mesh works on brightness: the outside of a mask is lit and the inside is dark, so from outside the eye sees the black struts and a dark gap, and from inside your eye focuses past the struts onto the lit room. Print it in black, keep the inside of the mask dark, and it holds up in all but a bright light shone straight into the eye hole.

Why is this eye mesh curved and not flat?

A flat mesh in a curved mask leaves a gap at the corners or has to be forced into shape, and a forced flat print cracks at the rim. A mesh pressed to a curve sits flush all round, so the rim glues down along its whole length.

Will it fit my mask or helmet?

This one is an 80 mm almond. If your eye hole is a different shape, take a photo or scan of the mask straight on, trace the eye hole, and upload that outline to the mesh former. It builds a net and a matching press for your shape, with the rim as the gluing flange.

Is the eye mesh hard to see through when it is dark?

At 58% open it is about as clear as a store bought mask mesh by day, and noticeably darker indoors or at night. If you need more light, make the cells bigger on the mesh former rather than the struts thinner: 0.5 mm is already one nozzle wide.

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