◆ Resin
Six flint-look arrowhead pendants per pour in resin, 48 mm long with a hole for the ring. Silicone you pour yourself.
A silicone mold for six arrowhead pendants, each 48 mm long and 27 mm across the barbs: a leaf-shaped point with two barbs and a stem, 6.5 mm thick along its spine and thinning towards the edges, its face worked into shallow scallops like a knapped flint point, and a 3.8 mm hole through the stem left by a post in every cavity.
Made with our tray mold generator in its flexible silicone tray mode: print the caster, pour silicone into it and peel out a flexible six-cavity mold. Each pendant takes about 4 ml of resin, and the flexible tray peels off the barbs without snapping them.
Pour it in black or smoky resin for obsidian, swirl in white and grey for flint, or clear with mica and crushed crystal. The zip carries the printed caster exactly as the tool exported it, one arrowhead on its own as an STL, the master uploaded to the tool, and a print and pour sheet with the silicone figure the tool measured.
Shown as a 3D render of the printed caster with the silicone tray it makes and dark resin arrowheads in front, not a photo.

Print the caster as exported, open side up, no supports. For glassy blanks, print with ironing on the top surfaces, or sand the raised shapes smooth and brush on XTC-3D: the silicone copies every layer line and resin shows it.
Mix 115 ml of silicone, ideally a platinum one, and pour it into one corner of the caster in a thin stream until it covers the shapes to the rim. Tap out the bubbles, let it cure and peel it out. Each cavity has a small post that leaves the key ring hole.
Mix epoxy casting resin at the ratio on the bottle, stir slowly for three minutes and let it rest a few minutes so the bubbles rise. Glitter, mica or dried flowers go in face down: the side against the silicone is the front.
Fill each cavity to just below the top of its post (about 4 ml each) so the hole stays open, and pass a heat gun or a lighter quickly over the surface to pop the bubbles. Cover the tray against dust.
Leave epoxy 24 hours, then flex the tray and peel it off the blanks rather than pushing them out. Let them harden two more days, then fit a 6 to 8 mm jump ring and a key ring.
Print details
| Cast material | Resin |
|---|---|
| Printed parts | 1 |
| Size (W x D x H) | 103 x 110 x 16 mm |
| Print bed needed | 110 x 103 mm, 16 mm tall |
| Filament | ~42 g |
| Layer height | 0.2 mm |
| Infill | 15% |
| Supports | Not needed |
| Download | ZIP: printed caster (STL) + one arrowhead pendant (STL) + tool master (STL) + print and pour sheet |
| Added | 2026-09-28 |
Pro early access until October 28, 2026, then free with any account.
Like it or post your print on Thingiverse
Make your own tray mold →Made with the free Tray mold generator. Upload your own model and get the same kind of mold built around it, in your browser.
Free for personal use. Selling the pieces you cast needs a commercial licence (Pro or Founder); passing on the file itself is not permitted on any plan. Full terms.
New to casting? Read the ice cube tray mold guide.
Tint clear epoxy with a few drops of black resin pigment, just enough that it stays glossy black but shows a smoky edge against the light, and pour it slowly. A pinch of silver or gold mica swirled in gives the sheen real obsidian has.
Not in epoxy: each barb is about 5 mm wide at its root and 3 to 4 mm thick, and the flexible silicone peels off them without levering. Let the resin cure fully, usually two to three days, before you file or drill anything, and do not demold UV resin while it is still tacky.
Yes. The same silicone mold takes Jesmonite or a fine plaster for a stone look, polymer clay pressed in and baked on a tile, soap, or chocolate if you make the tray from a food-safe platinum silicone and keep it for food only.
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