◆ Concrete
Bubble taper candle holder mold
A bubble candlestick of three stacked spheres, 105 mm tall, for standard taper candles. Cast it in concrete from a silicone mold kit.
◆ Concrete
A bubble candlestick of three stacked spheres, 105 mm tall, for standard taper candles. Cast it in concrete from a silicone mold kit.
A bubble taper candle holder 105 mm tall: three stacked spheres of 62, 52 and 44 mm, joined by soft rounded waists, stand on a flat 55 mm foot. The top sphere is cut flat round a socket for a standard 7/8 inch (22 mm) taper candle, 23 mm across at the mouth, narrowing to 22.2 mm, 20 mm deep, with a chamfer that guides the candle in.
Made with the hugging-shell mode of our silicone mold maker, which the site's own mold advisor recommends for this standing shape: every waist between the bubbles would lock a rigid two-part mold. Print the base with the holder fused onto it, the two shell halves and the six clamps, and pour about 250 ml of silicone. The skin that comes out has a silicone plug inside that forms the candle socket, and it peels off over the bubbles.
Cast it in fine concrete or Jesmonite, about 436 g in concrete, heavy enough that a tall taper will not tip it. Make a pair in grey and white, or paint them pastel for a table setting. The zip carries every printed part, the holder master as its own STL, the tool's own print-settings sheet and a recipe file for the generator.
Shown as a 3D render of the printed mold parts pulled apart around the master, not a photo.
Print the base, which has the holder master already fused onto it, the two shell halves and the six clamps (all six are in clamps.stl). No supports.
Stand the base plate on the table, set each shell half down a few centimetres out from it and slide it in until the ridge round the plate sits in the groove at its foot. Push the six clamps over the seams: the shells cannot lift after that, and the ridge seals the bottom.
Tape the outside seams or run a bead of hot glue along them, because silicone finds every gap.
Mix 278 ml of silicone in one batch and pour it through the pour hole in the top of the shell in a thin stream until the hole is full. It fills the candle socket as it rises and becomes a plug.
Once it has cured, take the clamps off, slide each shell half straight out and peel the silicone off the master. That skin is your mold, with the socket plug standing inside it.
Put the skin back in the shell halves with the clamps on, and stand the shell upside down on the fins on its roof so the skin keeps its shape. The open foot is now on top.
Mix a fine concrete or Jesmonite a little wetter than for a slab, pour it slowly down one side round the socket plug, vibrate the shell for a minute to raise the air, and strike the foot flat.
Demold after a day: take the shell off and peel the skin back off the bubbles from the open foot, one bubble at a time, and the socket plug slides out of the top on its own. Let it cure for a few days, sand the foot flat, add a felt pad, and seal it so wax drips peel off.
Print details
| Cast material | Concrete |
|---|---|
| Printed parts | 9 |
| Size (W x D x H) | 109 x 108 x 128 mm |
| Print bed needed | 108 x 79 mm, 128 mm tall |
| Filament | ~278 g |
| Layer height | 0.2 mm |
| Infill | 15% |
| Supports | Not needed |
| Download | ZIP: 9 printed parts in 4 STL files + candle holder master (STL) + print sheet + recipe |
| Added | 2026-09-26 |
Made with the free Silicone mold maker generator. Upload your own model and get the same kind of mold built around it, in your browser.
Free download. Opens the Thingiverse listing in a new tab.
Free for personal use. Selling the pieces you cast needs a commercial licence (Pro or Founder); passing on the file itself is not permitted on any plan. Full terms.
New to casting? Read the silicone mold maker guide.
Standard 7/8 inch (22 mm) taper candles, the common dinner candle. The socket narrows from 23 to 22.2 mm, so most candle ends wedge in snugly. A thicker end can be shaved with a knife or softened in warm water first, and a thin one takes a small dab of candle adhesive putty in the socket.
Concrete and Jesmonite do not burn, and the holder is heavy enough that the candle will not topple it. Never leave a lit taper alone, keep it away from drafts, and put the candle out before it burns down to the socket. Do not cast this holder in resin: a taper burnt low would scorch it.
Sand the foot flat with 120 grit on a flat board once the holder has cured for a few days, then stick on a felt pad or a cork disc about 45 mm across. Sealing it with a clear concrete sealer also stops wax drips soaking in, so they peel off once cold.
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