◆ Concrete
Concrete tabletop fire bowl mold
A round concrete tabletop fire bowl, 110 mm across, with a pocket for a standard gel fuel can. A silicone mold kit from printed parts.
◆ Concrete
A round concrete tabletop fire bowl, 110 mm across, with a pocket for a standard gel fuel can. A silicone mold kit from printed parts.
A tabletop fire bowl in concrete, 110 mm across and 70 mm tall: a round bowl that swells from an 80 mm foot to a rounded rim, a shallow dish falling from the rim, and in the middle a pocket 70 mm across and 58 mm deep that takes a standard 7 oz gel fuel can (about 67 mm across) with a little room around it, on a 12 mm floor. It is 314 ml, about 690 g in concrete, heavy enough that it does not tip on a patio table.
Made with the box mode of our silicone mold maker in its round shape, the mode the tool itself suggests for this shape: the bowl is wider at its rim than at its foot, so the silicone block is slit open once, like a book, to free the master. The pocket becomes a silicone core standing in the block. Print the base with the bowl fused onto it, the two walls and the two clamps, and pour about 1030 ml of silicone.
Safety first: the flame always burns in its own metal can or a metal insert, never on bare concrete, and only in a bowl that has cured for at least four weeks. Fresh concrete still holds water, and water trapped in concrete that heats up can make the surface spall or crack. Cast it grey, charcoal or white, and fill the dish round the can with fire glass or lava rocks. The zip carries every printed part, the bowl master as its own STL, the tool's own print-settings sheet and a recipe file for the generator.
Shown as a 3D render of the printed mold parts pulled apart around the master, not a photo.
Print the base with the master fused onto it, the two walls and the two clamps.
Stand the base on the table. Set each wall down a few centimetres out from it and slide it in over the table until the ridge round the base sits in the groove at its foot, then slide the clamps down over the seams. Once they are on, the walls cannot lift, and the ridge seals the bottom.
Mix 1100 ml of silicone in one batch and pour it in a thin stream down the inside of a wall, letting it rise round the master and into its well until it covers the top.
Once it has cured, take the clamps off and slide the walls straight out. The bowl is wider higher up than at its foot, so cut one straight slit down the side of the block with a sharp knife, from the open face to about 10 mm short of the top, open it like a book and lift the master out.
Turn the block over and stand it back inside the walls with the clamps on, which hold the slit shut. The opening is the foot of the bowl, with the silicone core standing up in the middle.
Mix a fine concrete or Jesmonite a little wetter than for a slab, pour it slowly down one side of the ring round the core, and tap the walls for a minute to raise the air. Fill level with the opening and strike it flat.
Leave it to cure for a day, take the walls off, open the slit, peel the silicone off the outside and twist the bowl off the core. Sand the foot flat and seal it.
Let the bowl cure for at least four weeks before any flame: fresh concrete still holds water. Then always set the fuel in its metal can or a metal insert into the pocket, never pour or light fuel on the bare concrete, keep it on a heat-safe surface and never leave it burning alone.
Print details
| Cast material | Concrete |
|---|---|
| Printed parts | 5 |
| Size (W x D x H) | 138 x 138 x 108 mm |
| Print bed needed | 160 x 138 mm, 108 mm tall |
| Filament | ~430 g |
| Layer height | 0.2 mm |
| Infill | 15% |
| Supports | Not needed |
| Download | ZIP: 5 printed parts (STL) + fire bowl master (STL) + print sheet + recipe |
| Added | 2026-10-01 |
Made with the free Silicone mold maker generator. Upload your own model and get the same kind of mold built around it, in your browser.
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The standard 7 oz (about 200 g) gel fuel cans, 67 mm across and about 64 mm tall, and the round metal burner inserts sold for tabletop fire pits up to 68 mm across. The pocket is 70 mm across and 58 mm deep, so the can drops in with a millimetre of air round it and its rim sits a few millimetres above the bowl rim, where the snuffer lid still fits.
Yes, used the right way: let the concrete cure for at least four weeks so the water in it is gone, always burn the fuel in its own metal can or a metal insert, never on bare concrete, and stand the bowl on a heat-safe surface away from anything that burns. Fresh or wet concrete can crack or spall when it heats, which is why the can, not the concrete, holds the flame.
Only inside a closed metal burner insert made for it, never poured into the bowl. Liquid fuel soaks into concrete, keeps burning in the pores and can flare when you refill it. Gel fuel cans and sealed burner inserts are the safe choice for this bowl.
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