◆ Concrete
Concrete lava stone incense sphere mold
An 80 mm lava stone look incense sphere in concrete, pitted all over, with a well on top for a cone. A silicone mold kit from printed parts.
◆ Concrete
An 80 mm lava stone look incense sphere in concrete, pitted all over, with a well on top for a cone. A silicone mold kit from printed parts.
A round incense holder 80 mm across that looks like a lump of lava stone: 70 round pores 3 to 9 mm across scattered all over it, each with a soft rim, a flat 50 mm foot so it sits still, and its top cut flat round a well 20 mm across and 5 mm deep for a cone of incense or a resin cup. Cast it in charcoal or black concrete for the volcanic look. It is 256 ml, about 562 g in concrete.
Made with the box mode of our silicone mold maker in its round shape, the mode the tool itself suggests: the sphere is wider at its middle than at its foot and every pore is a tiny undercut, so the silicone block is slit open once and peels off the pores. Print the base with the sphere fused onto it, the two walls and the two clamps, and pour about 532 ml of silicone.
Porous concrete also works as a passive diffuser: a few drops of essential oil on an uncoated sphere soak in and scent a shelf for days. The zip carries every printed part, the sphere master as its own STL, the tool's own print-settings sheet and a recipe file for the generator.
Shown as a 3D render of the printed mold parts pulled apart around the master, not a photo.
Print the base with the master fused onto it, the two walls and the two clamps.
Stand the base on the table. Set each wall down a few centimetres out from it and slide it in over the table until the ridge round the base sits in the groove at its foot, then slide the clamps down over the seams. Once they are on, the walls cannot lift, and the ridge seals the bottom.
Mix 573 ml of silicone in one batch and pour it in a thin stream down the inside of a wall, letting it rise round the master and into its well until it covers the top.
Once it has cured, take the clamps off and slide the walls straight out. The sphere is wider higher up than at its foot, so cut one straight slit down the side of the block with a sharp knife, from the open face to about 10 mm short of the top, open it like a book and lift the master out.
Turn the block over and stand it back inside the walls with the clamps on, which hold the slit shut. The opening is the foot of the sphere, with the cone well as a small silicone plug in the middle.
Mix a fine concrete or Jesmonite with a little black pigment, brush a thin first coat into the pores so no air stays in them, then fill and tap the walls for a full minute. Fill level with the opening and strike the foot flat.
Leave it to cure for a day, take the walls off, open the slit and peel the silicone off the sphere a little at a time so the pores come out whole. Sand the foot flat and add a felt pad.
Print details
| Cast material | Concrete |
|---|---|
| Printed parts | 5 |
| Size (W x D x H) | 108 x 108 x 105 mm |
| Print bed needed | 130 x 108 mm, 105 mm tall |
| Filament | ~337 g |
| Layer height | 0.2 mm |
| Infill | 15% |
| Supports | Not needed |
| Download | ZIP: 5 printed parts (STL) + incense sphere master (STL) + print sheet + recipe |
| Added | 2026-10-01 |
Made with the free Silicone mold maker generator. Upload your own model and get the same kind of mold built around it, in your browser.
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Free for personal use. Selling the pieces you cast needs a commercial licence (Pro or Founder); passing on the file itself is not permitted on any plan. Full terms.
New to casting? Read the silicone mold maker guide.
Incense cones, which stand in the 20 mm well on top, and small resin or charcoal cups up to 20 mm across. For sticks, push one into a pore at an angle: the larger pores hold a stick upright. Stand it on a heat-safe tray or coaster, as ash from a cone falls over the side.
Yes, leave it unsealed: concrete is porous, so a few drops of essential oil on the top soak in and give off scent for a few days. Use one sphere for one oil, as the scents mix once they have soaked in. A sealed sphere repels the oil, so seal only the foot if you want it to protect a wooden shelf.
Brush a thin coat of the mix into the pores before you fill, then vibrate the mold for a full minute: air caught in a pore makes a blob instead of a hole. A fluid, fine mix with no gravel, or Jesmonite, fills them best. Peel the silicone slowly when you demold.
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