◆ Concrete
Concrete succulent bowl mold
A 120 mm succulent bowl to cast in concrete, with a rounded rim and a drainage hole. A silicone mold kit from printed parts.
◆ Concrete
A 120 mm succulent bowl to cast in concrete, with a rounded rim and a drainage hole. A silicone mold kit from printed parts.
A low succulent bowl 120 mm across the rim and 46 mm tall on an 84 mm foot. The side leans out from the foot and rises to upright under a rounded rim, and the well follows it 8.5 mm in over an 11 mm floor with a 10 mm drainage hole: room for three to five small succulents, or one trailing plant.
Made with the box mode of our silicone mold maker in its round shape, which the tool itself suggests for this low, wide bowl. Print the base with the bowl fused onto it, the two walls and the two clamps, and pour about 983 ml of silicone. It fills the well and becomes the core, with a pin that forms the drainage hole, so every cast comes out hollow and drained.
The rim is wider than the foot, so the cured block gets one straight slit down its side to let each bowl out, and the printed walls hold it shut for the next pour. Cast it in white Jesmonite or pale concrete for a spa shelf or a shop display. The zip carries every printed part, the bowl master as its own STL, the tool's own print-settings sheet and a recipe file for the generator.
Shown as a 3D render of the printed mold parts pulled apart around the master, not a photo.
Print the base with the master fused onto it, the two walls and the two clamps.
Stand the base on the table. Set each wall down a few centimetres out from it and slide it in over the table until the ridge round the base sits in the groove at its foot, then slide the clamps down over the seams. Once they are on, the walls cannot lift, and the ridge seals the bottom.
Mix 1050 ml of silicone in one batch and pour it in a thin stream down the inside of a wall, letting it rise round the master and into its well until it covers the top.
Once it has cured, take the clamps off and slide the walls straight out. The bowl is wider higher up than at its foot, so cut one straight slit down the side of the block with a sharp knife, from the open face to about 10 mm short of the top, open it like a book and lift the master out.
Turn the block over and stand it back inside the walls with the clamps on, which hold the slit shut. The opening is the foot of the bowl, with the silicone core standing up in the middle and the drainage pin on its tip.
Mix a fine concrete or Jesmonite a little wetter than for a slab, pour it slowly down one side of the ring round the core, and tap the walls for a minute to raise the air. Fill level with the opening and strike it flat, wiping the tip of the drainage pin clean.
Leave it to cure for a day, take the walls off, open the slit, peel the silicone off the outside and twist the bowl off the core. Sand the foot flat and seal it.
Print details
| Cast material | Concrete |
|---|---|
| Printed parts | 5 |
| Size (W x D x H) | 148 x 148 x 84 mm |
| Print bed needed | 170 x 148 mm, 84 mm tall |
| Filament | ~335 g |
| Layer height | 0.2 mm |
| Infill | 15% |
| Supports | Not needed |
| Download | ZIP: 5 printed parts (STL) + bowl master (STL) + print sheet + recipe |
| Added | 2026-09-26 |
Pro early access until October 26, 2026, then free with any account.
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Free for personal use. Selling the pieces you cast needs a commercial licence (Pro or Founder); passing on the file itself is not permitted on any plan. Full terms.
New to casting? Read the silicone mold maker guide.
Three to five small ones from 5 cm pots, packed close the way shop arrangements are, or a single trailing plant. The well is about 103 mm across and 35 mm deep over the drainage hole, so use a gritty cactus mix and top it with fine gravel.
Because the rim is 120 mm across and the foot only 84, and a bowl leaves a silicone block through its foot. Cut one straight slit down the side of the cured block, from the open face to about 10 mm short of the top, and it opens like a book; inside the printed walls it closes tight again for each pour.
Yes. Plug the drainage hole from below with a cork disc or a felt pad, and seal the bowl with a clear concrete sealer so it does not mark. For fruit, finish it with a sealer sold as food safe and let it cure for the time on the tin before use.
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