◆ Concrete

Concrete tealight holder mold

A fluted concrete tealight holder, 78 mm across, as a silicone mold from printed parts.

3D render of the fluted tealight holder master fused on its printed charcoal base, between the orange and blue round walls, with the charcoal clamps behind
Concrete ~242 g

A round tealight holder 78 mm across and 44 mm tall, with 28 rounded vertical flutes, a slight draft and a recess on top that takes a standard 38 mm tealight.

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Made with the box mode of our silicone mold maker in its round shape: print the base with the holder fused onto it face up, the walls and the clamps, pour about 389 ml of silicone, and the block you get casts the holder upside down, recess and all. Fill it with concrete, Jesmonite or plaster.

The zip carries every printed part, the holder master as its own STL, the tool's own print-settings sheet and a recipe file for the generator.

Shown as a 3D render of the printed mold parts pulled apart around the master, not a photo.

Concrete tealight holder mold at a glance: every printed part with its size, print time, filament, print settings and the three steps to use it

What you need

4
  • About 423 ml of silicone (mix it in one batch)
  • Concrete, Jesmonite or plaster: each cast is 162 ml
  • Tape or a hot glue gun for the wall seams
  • Fine sandpaper and felt pads for the finished holder

How to cast it

6
  1. Print the base with the master fused onto it, the two walls and the two clamps.

  2. Stand the base on the table. Set each wall down a few centimetres out from it and slide it in over the table until the ridge round the base sits in the groove at its foot, then slide the clamps down over the seams. Once they are on, the walls cannot lift, and the ridge seals the bottom.

  3. Mix 423 ml of silicone in one batch and pour it into a corner, letting it rise around the master until it covers the top.

  4. Once it has cured, take the clamps off, slide the walls straight out and pull the silicone block off the master. That block is your mold.

  5. Turn the block over: the opening is the bottom of the holder. Fill it with a fine concrete mix, tap the sides for a minute to raise the air, strike the bottom flat and leave it to cure.

  6. Demold after a day, sand the bottom flat and stick on felt pads so it does not scratch the table.

Print details

7 hPrint time
~242 gFilament
5Printed parts
105 × 105 × 80 mmSize (W x D x H)
All print details
Print details
Cast materialConcrete
Printed parts5
Size (W x D x H)105 x 105 x 80 mm
Print bed needed128 x 106 mm, 80 mm tall
Filament~242 g
Layer height0.2 mm
Infill15%
SupportsNot needed
DownloadZIP: 5 printed parts (STL) + tealight holder master (STL) + print sheet + recipe
Added2026-09-24
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Made with the free Silicone mold maker generator. Upload your own model and get the same kind of mold built around it, in your browser.

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Free for personal use. Selling the pieces you cast needs a commercial licence (Pro or Founder); passing on the file itself is not permitted on any plan. Full terms.

New to casting? Read the silicone mold maker guide.

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Questions about this design

Which concrete mix works for a fluted tealight holder?

A fine one with no stones in it: a rapid-set craft cement, a fine sand and cement mix, or Jesmonite. Mix it like thick yoghurt, not like a slab. Large aggregate cannot get into the flutes and leaves holes along the ribs.

Is a concrete holder safe with a tealight?

Yes. Concrete does not burn, and the tealight sits in its own metal or plastic cup. Seal the holder with a clear concrete sealer if you want it to shrug off wax drips, and keep it on a heat-proof surface like any candle.

How do I get fewer pinholes on the flutes?

Brush a thin first coat of the mix into the flutes before you fill the rest, then tap or vibrate the mold for a minute. An orbital sander without paper, held against the side of the silicone block, brings the trapped air up.