◆ Concrete
Wavy taper candle holder mold
A chunky wavy candlestick, 82 mm tall, for standard taper candles. Cast it in concrete from a silicone mold kit.
◆ Concrete
A chunky wavy candlestick, 82 mm tall, for standard taper candles. Cast it in concrete from a silicone mold kit.
A wavy taper candle holder 82 mm tall and 67 mm across its lowest wave: a chunky turned column that rises in three soft waves, each a little smaller than the one below, to a flat rim round a socket for a standard 7/8 inch (22 mm) taper candle, 23 mm across at the mouth, narrowing to 22.2 mm, 20 mm deep. Every valley is round, so the concrete fills it and the silicone never tears there.
Made with the hugging-shell mode of our silicone mold maker, the mode the site's own mold advisor and the tool itself recommend: the wave valleys would lock a rigid two-part mold. Print the base with the holder fused onto it, the two shell halves and the six clamps, and pour about 229 ml of silicone. The skin has a silicone plug inside that forms the socket, and it flexes off the waves in one piece.
Cast it in fine concrete or Jesmonite, about 370 g in concrete: low and heavy, so even a tall taper stands steady. Make three for a mantel in grey, cream and terracotta. The zip carries every printed part, the holder master as its own STL, the tool's own print-settings sheet and a recipe file for the generator.
Shown as a 3D render of the printed mold parts pulled apart around the master, not a photo.
Print the base, which has the holder master already fused onto it, the two shell halves and the six clamps (all six are in clamps.stl). No supports.
Stand the base plate on the table, set each shell half down a few centimetres out from it and slide it in until the ridge round the plate sits in the groove at its foot. Push the six clamps over the seams: the shells cannot lift after that, and the ridge seals the bottom.
Tape the outside seams or run a bead of hot glue along them, because silicone finds every gap.
Mix 255 ml of silicone in one batch and pour it through the pour hole in the top of the shell in a thin stream until the hole is full. It fills the candle socket as it rises and becomes a plug.
Once it has cured, take the clamps off, slide each shell half straight out and peel the silicone off the master. That skin is your mold, with the socket plug standing inside it.
Put the skin back in the shell halves with the clamps on, and stand the shell upside down on the fins on its roof so the skin keeps its shape. The open foot is now on top.
Mix a fine concrete or Jesmonite a little wetter than for a slab, pour it slowly down one side round the socket plug, vibrate the shell for a minute to raise the air, and strike the foot flat.
Demold after a day: take the shell off and peel the skin back off the waves from the open foot, a little all round at a time, and the socket plug slides out of the top on its own. Let it cure for a few days, sand the foot flat, add a felt pad, and seal it so wax drips peel off.
Print details
| Cast material | Concrete |
|---|---|
| Printed parts | 9 |
| Size (W x D x H) | 110 x 110 x 105 mm |
| Print bed needed | 110 x 82 mm, 106 mm tall |
| Filament | ~247 g |
| Layer height | 0.2 mm |
| Infill | 15% |
| Supports | Not needed |
| Download | ZIP: 9 printed parts in 4 STL files + candle holder master (STL) + print sheet + recipe |
| Added | 2026-09-26 |
Made with the free Silicone mold maker generator. Upload your own model and get the same kind of mold built around it, in your browser.
Free download. Opens the Thingiverse listing in a new tab.
Free for personal use. Selling the pieces you cast needs a commercial licence (Pro or Founder); passing on the file itself is not permitted on any plan. Full terms.
New to casting? Read the silicone mold maker guide.
Yes, if it sits right down in the 20 mm socket. The socket narrows slightly toward its floor, so a standard 22 mm taper wedges in upright; twist it in gently rather than pushing. If one leans, warm its end in hot water for a few seconds and press it in again, or add a dab of candle putty.
Pour one after another from the same mold, a day apart. Mix concrete pigment into the dry mix at 2 to 5% of the cement weight, or use Jesmonite pigments, and keep a note of the amounts so a second batch matches. Terracotta, cream and charcoal make a good trio on a mantel.
Yes, for indoor use: casting plaster fills the waves beautifully and paints well, but it is softer than concrete and dents if knocked, and it soaks up wax, so seal it first. Pour it the same way through the foot and demold after an hour, once it is warm and hard.
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